Location: Great Bear Wilderness Area, Flatthead National Forrest, Montana (near Glacier National Park)
Distance: 7 miles round trip
We experimented with taking the Amtrak, Empire Builder Train from Fargo ND to Essex MT in order to explore hiking options in Glacier National Park and the Great Bear Wilderness Area. The good news is that it is entirely possible to use the train service to deposit one’s self on the doorstep of the wilderness. The train was about an 18 hour trip that left at 3:30am and had us arrive at 7:30pm. Our reservations at the Issak Walton Inn included a van pick up at the train stop. I would suggest to anyone to stay at the Inn for at least a night to get clean and rested and ready to hit the trail in the morning.
With the kids (5, 8, and 10) in tow we set out for the Lake Marion Trail #150 from the Inn for a day hike to take the kids into a wilderness area for the first time. Take the bridge over the railroad tracks, follow the fire road left, and you will find the trailhead a ways up (roughly a half mile-mile) on the right. You immediately begin to ascend and spend most of the time to the lake marching upwards.
The trail has you wading through huckleberry bushes, and raspberries and blueberries along with the pine forest all around. The total elevation gain is about 2,000 feet which leads to ever increasing mountain views peek-a-booing through the trees. Since it is a heavily berried path, it is advised to carry bear-spray. We had ours but saw surprisingly little evidence of recent bear activity. From doorstop to lake the hike was right about 3.5 miles. The stream runs along your left for the majority of the way and you can hear it, but since you are climbing the side of the mountain don’t expect to be able to fill your water bottle until you are nearly at the lake. The overgrown nature of the trail left us with fairly damp clothes that picked up the rainwater gathered on the bush leaves.
Once there, the lake is perfect for a day of picnicking and fly fishing. The water was shallow and still, only broken by the little fingerling trout fly feasting. We saw leeches swimming along the shallows from the shore so I don’t know if I would do much swimming myself. The calm grandeur of the mountainsides sweeping down and the lakes surface reflecting the billowy clouds, blue sky and mountains green makes it a worthy prize after a long uphill hike. With the kids we landed there late in the day and had to start back too quickly, in the future I would definitely bring the tents and fly rod and spend a night or two just soaking it in.
With the downhill nature of the return hike, we were back snug in our warm beds much quicker than the time it took to venture in. Gear must-haves would be lays of clothes and enough rain gear to weather an unexpected shower as the mountains hide gray clouds that sweep in quickly. An excellent first venture for the kids into a wilderness area.
Visiting Northern California during the spring of an El Nino year means rain. Waking up to a morning where the sun broke through the living room window seemed like the best chance to see how far up toward the Yolla Bolly Wilderness Area we could make it before the snowy roads cut us off. We grabbed rain gear, snacks and the 4 wheel drive and off we went. The clouds rolled in quickly as we cut along the Round Valley floor, since it was clear we weren’t going to beat the rain, we stopped in at the Covelo Ranger Station and discovered they have created two new wilderness areas we were unaware of existing in the region; the Yuki Wilderness and the Sanhedrin Wilderness with a dedication ceremony set to happen later this March. I also found out that in National Forests dogs are welcome on the trails if they are on leashes, as opposed to the National Parks where dogs aren’t generally allowed outside of developed areas like campgrounds. Next time I plan a family road trip that includes the puppies I will have to map out a National Forest route.
We headed out past the other ranger station and up Indian Dick Rd. where we found water falls shooting out of the mountainside, vistas of the river in full roar, blooming trees and a mix of snow and slush showers. The going was slow with lots of trees down along the road but we made it to the snowline. The national forest runs along the left side of the road but the right is privately owned and it takes a bit of driving to feel confident that you won’t be trespassing and with the pot gardens dotting the hillsides you don’t want to stumble upon a plot inadvertently. Along the way we spotted one trailhead but it was in the midst of a burned out area of forest which would lead to a day of over and unders on the fallen trees, so we opted for an access road that was leading up for a few miles to see what we could see.
It was a nice wide road but it was made a bit difficult by the running water and the continual incline. It didn’t take long to hit snow and wish for some warmer gear. Though I did thank my South Dakota acclimatization for helping me feel comfortable in the 34 degree drizzle. We came prepared for short jaunts into the rain and so we had our raincoats with a few layers underneath. The water would pool a bit on my hood and I found it fun to dip my head and watch the cascades of water rain down. After a bit the water started penetrating my legs and they grew numb, similar to when you go running in the rain. But it was worth the discomfort to get to hear the water rushing down all of the waterfalls and to feel the mysticism of the foggy mist rising along hidden meadows you could imagine housing mythical beasts.
There were burrowed holes all over that were probably made by the wild pigs and we followed coyote tracks in the snow for a good bit of the way. The snow covered in a patchy way that lead to surprising patches of green moss and some mushrooms popping out as if Smurf village was snowed in. The forest showed fire damage in places and it was striking how the Manzanita can be just as lovely even when charred.
We went until we came across the main water flow and realized we would be wet-booted no matter which way we attempted to cross, which seemed like a good indicator it was time to turn and head back to the car. It was good to go out and practice hiking in inclement weather. It wouldn’t have been bad to set up and dry tent and roll into a warm bag at the end of the afternoon, but it was nice to instead turn on the butt-warmer in the car and arrive home to hot bowl of Grandma chicken noodle soup and a spot next to the warm wood stove.
Location: 1:20 minutes away from Brookings, SD just north of Luverne, MN.
Distance: 13 miles of trail
Difficulty: Easy- day hiking for the whole family
Dogs allowed on leash Mother’s Day (2015) hike with the entire family at the Blue Mounds State Park which is an easy drive from the house, perfect for a quick day hike. The climbers I know keep inviting me to head to Blue Mounds for the climbing, so I wanted to go do a bit of reconnaissance; and when I looked it up online and found it had 13 miles of trails and a buffalo herd, I was sold.
The hike itself is the perfect high interest trail for the kids to get involved in. There are many trail markers/sign posts for them to stop at and practice their navigating skills; as the entire trail is mowed it is impossible for them to get lost. We started heading out along the bison field; which kept the kids moving along as they were seeing who would be the first to spot the herd. The only downside being that you are hiking along a huge prison-style fence; which is a pretty good scene killer. There were several false spottings of boulders but once we did find the herd, it was the perfect opportunity to sit on a big rock and have our snack.
The trail is essentially an oblong loop along the ledge of the rock wall. For the three hours we were there we saw an impressive number of animals. Bison herd, white tailed deer, a snake, a whole host of insects, vultures and assorted birds. The terrain is slightly rolling but gentle on the knees. The kids had a blast hunting the cactus and watching for animals. The trail is a perfect family day out. While we only had a short time to explore the entire family agreed it is a great spot to go back and check out again. The park has done a really good job of making itself interactive and enjoyable. The signs stated that we could rent canoes, check out fishing equipment (free), bird watching equipment (free) and there was a scavenger hunt/geocache along the trail. The trailhead sports a vault toilet, volleyball and a swing set. This is just a very enjoyable little place to bring the whole family and enjoy a picnic, view some wildlife and get a little (though mild) trail action.
Final thoughts- high interest level for the kids and nice and relaxing for the parents. Not a bad way to spend a day!
Unlimited free visits with annual state park pass ($30 annually)
One of my favorite not so secret secrets in and around Brookings is Oakwood State Park. Our family heads there year-round for a chance to get out and wander in a bit of nature. It astounds me how the kids can climb into the car after school some afternoons looking downtrodden and morose; I say it is a nice day and we need to go walk the dogs, I swing by the house and grab the dogs and then a half hour later the kids climb out of the car with grins and vivaciousness while running toward the trail. They immediately launch into the imagination games they only play together when out on hiking trails. A priceless retreat from the drudgery of school and work. It works every time.
Oakwood offers just about any recreation you can want on a small scale. For our family it is a way to quickly get out on a whim and enjoy a short hike, or shore fishing – not to likely catch a fish but just for an afternoon of playing along the shore and thinking we are fishing (kids are still young enough that they don’t spend much time with a pole in hand anyways), and we have found some great pavement that isn’t well traveled for some hilly skateboarding.
I would call us opposite season enthusiasts. In the summer the park is teaming with campers and bicycles; when we do head over to float in the lake, I admire the comradery of the camper villages with lawn chairs encircling fire rings, and games of corn-hole and kids leisurely biking down to play in the lake. But it ultimately feels crowded and too tamed, a bit trampled if you will. For souls that seek solitude in nature, to wander unnoticed except by the birds and critters, it doesn’t fit the bill. Fortunately in South Dakota the trailers roll in and out on a clockwork season from Memorial Day to Labor Day, and for the other two-thirds of the year the park is blissfully vacant. If you go mid-week you rarely see another person; and in mid-winter you can be the only car in the entire place.
Tetonkaha Trail
Distance .8 mile
This is my favorite place in the whole park and we get on this trail at least a few times a month with the kids. For one thing this trail circles the perimeter of Scout Island, which has a nice history that is told in placards about the Boy Scouts using the island. They have recently installed a trail head sign that includes brochures and scavenger hunt lists that the kids love to take along on our walk. When you hit the tip of the island there is a bench that is a natural resting spot to sit and enjoy looking out over the lake and look for what birds or fish might be around. There is a mailbox nearby with a card instructing kids to take a picture of themselves by the box. When you leave the park, you can stop by the office and show them your picture from the day to get a prize. The kids are always excited by this idea. I like that the island is naturally enclosed and I can feel comfortable letting everyone have a bit more freedom to explore at will, since when you park you can see if there are other cars there, and most of the times that we go out there are rarely other visitors on the trail at the same time. Our own private island to explore – priceless!
Prairie Trail
Distance 1.2
Another nice trail to feel like you are out in a bit of nature and away from the world. This trail leads through a bit of forrest near the lake and also cuts across the prairie grasses. You can see this trail as you drive to the park since the road intersects it. It seems longer than 1.2 miles so I will have to pay closer attention the next time we do this walk and see if we are inadvertently combining this with one of the other shorter trails. This trail doesn’t have any of the hiking signs, scavenger hunts or other established materials to keep the kids entertained, it feels more like hiking and is intresically enjoyable. The kids feel like they have earned sitting on the few benches and munching a trail snack with a bottle of water.
Mortimer Shoreline
Distance 1 mile
I have only really done this section once or twice. It runs along the main lake and is close to much of the campgrounds and road. It feels exposed. I always see ski tracks in the winter and think it must be a great levelness for cross country skiing.
In the four years we have been in this region our family has made many happy memories at Oakwood. When we first visited my husband dismissed it as not wilderness. True, it is a very tame park, but I saw what it was perfect for. With a family of young children, it is the perfect training ground for bigger adventures in the wilderness. It is so close that we don’t need to spend any time prepping or packing to go, if we are hungry or the weather turns; we just head home. The kids go regularly enough that we can talk about the changing seasons, the various animals and their seasonal habits, and the kids realize outdoor fun is available no matter what the weather. With activities like the snowshoe race and the kids ice fishing tournament being fun memories. I find any excuse to head out for a little while and have used the park to entertain guests and as a training ground for bigger hikes.
Oakwood still has many adventures waiting for us. They host many events designed to help kids get closer to the possibilities available in the outdoors. The kids are strong enough swimmers now that we will rent canoes this summer and also spend more time at the beach. We also hope to rent a cabin for a few days just for the fun of it. I am grateful to have so much waiting just a short jaunt down the road.
Last week I was completely charmed by the city of New Orleans. To begin with my husband and I decided to use the trip as a test on the feasibility of traveling with our long boards. I was apprehensive over carrying it around in airports and trying to get them in the overhead compartment, especially on our smaller regional flights. There was no reason to worry, it worked like a charm. We strapped them to our backpacks and even coming in around the 40in in length mark, they still fit easily in the overhead compartment; and since they are flat backpacks could still squish into the compartment in front of them. I was particularly relieved when there weren’t even any sideways glances or scowls from the flight attendants. I suppose they have seen stranger things. I did gate check it on one leg just to see how that worked and it was also easy breezy.
As soon as we had dumped our gear in the room we had two goals: food and skate. Our hotel situated us very close to the convention center which is pretty close to the French Quarter. There are a ton of restaurants beckoning you to stop with cool names and enticing signs. Coming down to a 70 degree day out of the frozen tundra, ever place that had outdoor seating seems like a perfect spot. So we rolled a few blocks getting a feel for the brick sidewalks, one way traffic flows and just general coolness of the vibe the whole place exudes before settling down for a little fried green tomato appetizer and a first taste of Abita. The dinner menu looked appealing but I was itching to move on and see more of the city.
We made our way down to the river and I had my happiest skating to-date along the Riverwalk. We burned all the daylight we had along the water; passing the aquarium which has a noisy aviary that was so sweet sounding after a silent winter, a huge fountain, restaurants and parks. The paver stones were so pretty and smooth, all of the curbs I encountered were sloped so I never ate it, and the terrain had enough ramps and wide open spaces that you could just relax and go. We finally called it when it was starting to get chilly and settled in at Jax for dinner. Delicious seafood with a sweet lady who served us, she mixed up the order but we weren’t in a hurry and the taste was worth a wait.
The next day had similar goals as the first day: good food and skating. Fortunately for us Cochon Butcher was just around the corner from where we were staying. The sandwiches and pitcher of beer were just delicious. The care they showed with the food was evident in every bite, right down to the sides. I have never had a more delicious bowl of Brussel sprouts and they left you tasting and questioning trying to figure out how you could recreate the taste. Happy taste memories galore, I would make this a staple of any trip to NOLA.
We decided to uber out to the city park to skate. It is a huge city park offering all sorts of great opportunities from art museum to strolling along scenic ponds to fields for any game; however in trying to get to a big winding paved trail we had to spend some time down by where the freeway overpasses the park, a bit more stress-noise than I like to have while in a park, but we made it to the trail and it was fun. All of the pavement we experienced in the park was a technical challenge since the tree roots and other earth movements has left it pretty cracked and upheaved. It helped me gain confidence in what I can tackle on my board but also led to some pretty graceless falls. While it was a pretty park, the skating was actually more fun the first day along the waterfront.
The French Quarter was enjoyable. I hopped on for a one-way ride on the trolley from the Riverwalk on down (trip was $1.25 and you need exact change since you feed it into a machine when you get on). There is plenty of shopping and you can bargain a bit or just chat up some locals in the open air market. After a bit of strolling the shops get repetitive and then you have the hard call of picking from a whole host of good eats. It was too late in the day for me to try but I have it on the best of authority that the place to go for a muffaletta is a little Italian grocery (Central Grocery) which I have put on my list for my next visit. We settled on a place that called us in with the live music, just a few blocks off of Bourbon Street as was suggested by a music friend. Good music but bad food- ah well, you can’t have it all in life. I tried to avoid Bourbon Street but did take a moment to photo bomb someone while there, I couldn’t resist. Hello out there somewhere, wherever you are!
Now I was lucky enough to be in New Orleans for Mardis Gras season, during the week leading up the Fat Tuesday when the parades begin but the craziness has not yet reached its frenzied peak. The entire experience was completely enchanting. The first night we made two rookie mistakes. 1. We set up to watch toward the end of the parade route, not a bad thing except that we got there at the parade start time and it took about two hours of waiting before the parade made it to that point. We could have totally sat down and had a great meal beforehand, instead of standing around getting colder and colder. 2. We stood against the railing. This makes it impossible to get good goodies from the floats since you can’t walk up close enough to ask for trinkets directly. The second night we found a spot right next to one of the pay-to-sit stands which was awesome. The buildings worked to block the wind, we met some super nice locals standing nearby who told us some interesting facts (like that the people who carry the gas lights are homeless folks who they round up to parade and that historically you would try to bounce coins off of the lantern back board, but now you can just hand them spare change, since it is a way for them to make a few bucks) and we were handed a pass so we could go in and use the port-a-potty in the seating area- score! The first night we were at the parade known for handing out elaborately decorated purses, we were disappointed to not just not get a purse but not even see one. We did talk to a lady who said she got several purses and that the key was to go up and ask the people on the float for them. So the second night we knew to at least try to ask for the elaborate shoes they were giving out.
I spoke with several locals who ride in the different parades and asked what it was like. The answer was always similar- that it makes you feel like a rock star. I was blown away by the different men and women participating in the parade who were dancing or strutting along with such sheer joy on their faces that no matter what they looked like- they just glowed with beauty. Being part of a huge crowd was a bit scary, except that we quickly bonded with the people within arm’s length who you had to show civility towards when jostling for beads, and there was no greater moment than when one person on the float made eye contact with me, pointed my way and handed me a prize. How in the huge sea of humanity that we are; it is those moments when you lock eyes and acknowledge each individually that is made more profound by the chaos. Oh yes, Mardis Gras is addictive.
New Orleans charmed me to no end. It was filled with natives who were proud of their home and their culture. I learned so much because everyone was eager to share. It just seems to be an open friendly city. I had no issues trying to drive around even in the heart of the city, and there are plenty of taxis and ubers, but the best is just to walk so you don’t miss much. The buildings are covered with gorgeous murals and everywhere I looked was another sculpture. Here is a place in America that you can feel a pulse of unmistakable Americana that runs deeper than burgers and fries and pies instead it has jambalaya, etouffee and king cakes. I can’t wait to come back.
I cannot accurately describe Prague for you. Sure I can give you some helpful facts such as the Czech Republic maintains its own currency while still being an EU member so your Euros won’t do you much good. Vendors will often take Euros from you but at a dismal rate of exchange. I can tell you the public transport is good with the subway running near anywhere you want to be, and there is a regular bus schedule from the airport into the city; just buy at ticket at the bus ticket booth in the airport. There are sights and activities for just about every mood and taste from fantastic clocks, to crystal shops, to war monuments to bridges and royal complexes complete with fanfared guard changes. There are museums to beer and sex as well as cathedrals and gardens. You can take night walking tours for ghosts and river dinner cruises. Prague will provide you with any form of entertainment you would want in a European city and by having a separate currency it is very affordable. Our first dinner at a very comfortable traditional Czech food establishment came to about $10 a plate including the beer and a dessert. As such, it seems to be a popular shopping destination and you can stroll for an entire day and never find yourself wanting of a shop to pop in to.
For me, I came to Prague at a difficult time. My grandfather, the patriarch of my family, passed away the week beforehand and we pulled off the daunting fete of getting my entire family back to Indiana to attend the funeral ceremonies and back home again in time for my husband and me to leave the next day on our flight to Prague. The timing was so tight that when I walked in for the flight out in the morning, I actually picked up a suitcase of ours that hadn’t made it onto our flight the night before. This was handy since a few of my essential travel items were tucked inside. I was able to bag up all the kids’ dirty clothes that were mixed in and take my suitcase with my goods along with me.
Lots of shopping.
To be sure, I was exhausted. And emotionally raw. My hands were shaking as I drove the rental car from the funeral home out to the cemetery behind the flashing lights of my great uncles Cadillac just a few days before and I had not completely stopped shaking in my heart. With my grandfather’s passing an entire chapter of my family’s story ended. That’s it, done. Finale. A hard reality to wrap the mind around.
The flight is never fun as you are cramped and trying to balance getting a bit of sleep with getting up regularly enough to ensure your blood doesn’t clot in your legs. Once you land , you follow the signs and can pretty easily get on the bus, that leads you to the metro, which then gets you near enough your destination to hoof it the rest of the way. The bus is crowded, the metro is deep and dreary (though splashed with dazzle when you pass the stations with sparkling murals on the walls) and the streets are happily pedestrian. Though do watch when you are crossing the trolley car rails as those suckers can sneak up on you.
Art Nouveau down to the plumbing.
The city is charming with some great architecture. Once you wander a bit you see a whole host of various periods represented and in blocks so that you are sure to not miss it. The art nouveau area is truly stunning. And the Dancing House catches you by surprise as you walk along the river. You can’t help but just stop and admire it, it captures your imagination and you are hard pressed to leave it.
Now one bit of European travel advice I always throw out the window is to try to acclimate to the time right away. The advice is always to suffer through the first day and not sleep until dark to reset your clock. But I am never on a tight deadline when I travel, generally taking a week or longer in a location, so I get to my hotel, draw the curtains and pass out to the world for as long a I like. This seems like sheer indulgence when I know there are no kids or dogs who will wake me up in the middle of the night.
Complete with guards.
Between catching up with friends and my own wandering plans, I made several trips to the old town area of the city that boasts the castle grounds and the cathedral. We took the mandatory route over the iconic Charles Bridge. Very pretty. There are little shops, museums and restaurants to help you fritter away your day. The palace to me was a bit disappointing. It is really more of a large compound of legislative buildings, it has an impressive gate where you can watch a changing of the guard, but I found it crowded and just a bit lackluster. The St. Vitus Cathedral was my favorite bit of the area. Even though it is a relatively new construction it has all the elements of a gothic cathedral, and some of the new stained glass depicting a modern sense were neat to see.
Take the time to stroll down to the Old Town Square and watch the astronomical clock. It is quickly over as the main attraction of it is when it chimes, then you are perfectly situated to enjoy some nice shopping, outdoor seating for a beer and watching the typical street entertainments of the square. I was completely dazzled by the crystal shop located directly across the way from the clock, it is huge and so sparkly you are nothing short of dazzled. The old architecture will draw you out of the square and onto delightful side streets full of vendors and goods.
Old Town Square
The New Town region has anything you are wishing to find in the way of modern shopping and restaurants. I took in a local open air market here and found my little trinkets to take home to the kids here.
Prague had a lot of construction/restoration style work going on at the time in and around the city. Work required trips over a huge expanse of bridge with daily commuting traffic grinding across. In the middle of the bridge was a great view of the possibilities the city had to offer. The convention center is easy to reach by foot or by metro and was very impressive. But above all, what kept drawing my eye and my imagination while in Prague amongst the huge city, with its hustle and charming history and architecture, was the local people I saw all around on the streets, in the restaurants, on the train. They struck me as a bit stoic and very seriously polite. In fact, the only people I found who appeared happy were the few young families pushing babies in strollers. Otherwise, there seemed to be a weariness to the way most people carried themselves. Prague served up many lessons to me; both about my own emotional resilience, about how time and place can shape a character, and that just going to a place doesn’t mean you’ve really been there. I saw some sights and had some good times with friends, but I wouldn’t dare say I understand Prague.
Now my husband is as much of a trail dreamer as I am, probably more so since he is the one that lit that fire in me in the first place by pushing me outside of my campground comfort zone and onto the trails and as far off trail as I am willing to venture (not far). So it wasn’t very surprising to me when he sent me a link for the Sage Creek Wilderness area in the Badlands. One of the harder adjustments to our South Dakota lifestyle has been finding ways to incorporate wilderness when it isn’t very close by. We have plenty of vast space just not so much with the types of features and land usage that makes for happy hiking.
He was pumped up and ready to grab gear and hit the road to escape into a little weekend away backcountry adventure; however there are some logistical realities we have yet to overcome to make this little weekend getaway a reality. First off, we need babysitting and dog sitting. While all of the grandparents still lived an airplane ride away it’s a bit of a hard sale to as them to come just so we can sneak away for a long weekend. Especially since they always say yes for all of our bigger outings. Fair enough, we have an awesome babysitter who could totally hold the fort down for a quick weekend, she even loves the dogs- a total double score! But truth be told, the loop is 22 miles and it is a 6 hour drive there and back just to hit the trail, with my husband still grumbling from the last time I pushed him above 6 miles of hiking per day, this trip will total a bit more than a weekend away. So, maybe we pack up the kids with all the gear and just family hike it? That would work outside of the second major logistical quirk to this trail- no water. Now I am not shy about packing in some weight, but I figure even if the kids only packed their water needs- their pack would outweigh any sane amount, and if the adults try to pack all those gallons of water it would just be a trudge which might find more whining actually coming from the big kids than the littles. So this one is still in our back pocket for that time when all the stars align and we can sneak away for three days.
In the mean time I convinced the hubby that it would be good practice to make a family road trip out to see Mt. Rushmore by way of the Badlands. We could assess the lay of the land, the kids could explore their own back yard a bit more, and I could finally stop saying I had traveled quite a bit but never managed to make it to “The Hills” since moving to SD. So awesome babysitter agreed to pamper the pooches, we loaded the car with excessive amounts of snacks and electronics and away we went.
Things I learned along the long waste of expanse that is the drive from Brookings out to the Badlands. I now better appreciate the talk of ‘east river’ versus ‘west river’ that I’ve heard talk of from those that come from these parts. I can see how the landscape shifts substantially enough that it could shape a whole variation of thought and culture. Fair enough. I discovered the significant role sorghum plays in the agriculture of South Dakota at a helpful road side rest that included a billboard that was surprisingly informative on the agricultural history of the region. It was a bit funny that I had half formed a bunch of questions as I watch out the car window and that the billboard actually addressed them. I was grateful for my foresight in packing sandwiches because there aren’t many food stop options along the way, indeed there is pretty much nothing along the way. One long stretch of no choice but getting yourself from here to there. Which brings me to the last thing I learned along the way; this is not a bit of highway I would want to hazard getting stuck on in a winter blizzard. Props to the friends I have made that make that drive throughout the winter for skiing or visiting relatives over the holidays.
The Badlands
Off of I-90 we took the Hwy 240 loop. We were itching to get out of the car and pulled over as soon as possible which happened to be a section of cliffs and we were joined by a whole host of other visitors scrambling around and exploring. There were little paths that led up and around and into dead ends. If you climbed enough you could look out and start getting a feel for the vistas of hardscape. It was really just a tease making you want to see more and have deeper trails to explore. So we loaded back up and headed down the road; we must have pulled over a dozen times. We were so hungry we opted to have our picnic right there at the ranger station which was fine, but we could have had a much cooler view had we waiting a few miles more down the road but again we just wandered and took it all in. We did want to make the hotel in Rapid City by nightfall so we decided that when we headed home in a few days to take the same route back to get another shot at poking around in the Badlands.
Rapid City
For two days we had a great time checking out all the typical touristy things in the Rapid City area that we could cram into such a short time. The kids really appreciated Mt. Rushmore and we took the little trail walk along its boardwalk lined route. Then we wanted to find a real trail since we had some mountain to play with.
There are tons of day-hike options in and around Rushmore alone. I wouldn’t mind getting a cabin for a week and just gorging on taking the kids on all the little 4-6 mile options, but I had heard good things about Harney Peek and we wanted to give that a-go. That was until we realized the good old SD wind was ripping like crazy that afternoon and I didn’t much want to spend the entire outing worrying about kids on a peek in the wind. So we hunted out a trail with a bit more shelter. After consulting the guide book and trying to match the road map and the actually road signs we eventually made it onto the Palmer Creek Trail. We anticipated going for a few miles and looping back; however, the trail was so encumbered with deadfall and downed trees that it quickly became more like a jungle gym trying to climb over around and through and handing kids across logs. This impacted our pace so much that we finally had our lunch, enjoyed the sounds of the forest and pretty soon headed back down the same trail; especially since the sun was fading earlier with it now being fall and we were on the shady side of the mountain. I would have to say for any hike in the generally area it would be a good idea to plan a bit more time if all of the forest is so heavily impacted by the pine beetle. Next time I will be sure to grab a headlamp in addition to the first aid kit and copious amounts of water for taking the kids on the trail. There is nothing they like better than stopping for a sip of water; about every 200 yards. But good on them for being sports with all of the climbing, and for grinning and teasing their daddy as he made up wild tales of what creatures we might find around the next bend.
As for Rapid City, it made a great impression and there is no doubt we will head back that way regularly to get better acquainted with the trails and the various local food establishments. I do have to throw out there some major praise for Stonewalls Kitchen for serving up the best cinnamon rolls I have ever experienced. In fact, every plate on our table was covered in deliciousness and the Black Hills coffee was a happy reprieve from the hotel variation we had tried to start the day with. The only downside was that they only serve breakfast on Saturday and Sunday so we had to find something not nearly as satisfying on Monday morning before we headed out of town. I not-so-jokingly told my husband he would have to drive me out to Rapid just for the cinnamon rolls. Yes, please.
Back Through the Badlands
On our second go through the Badlands we had a bit more time and were able to at least find a trail to skirt along for a little while. The landscape is such that a trail is never going to look like much more than a game trail with some obvious trail marking spikes hammered into the ground at various intervals. Good to know. There won’t be much in the way of shelter so when we go we will need to have a good eye on the weather. I am not sure how fun it would be to try to hold down a tent during the violent thunderstorms that roll through this region in the summer. Any hike in the Badlands will immediately make you ponder the craziness that drove explorers and settlers to try to manage settling down in the region; one overlook tells of an entire area that was homesteaded where there is now just one lone tree standing as a reminder of the lives that didn’t take. It a beautiful unforgiving landscape that I will approach hiking with great respect, forethought and planning. I welcome the challenge.
Three years ago I concocted a wild dream as I couldn’t drift off to sleep one night to take my husband and hike the Lost Coast of California. I became so excited I grew increasingly agitated rather than drifting off to sleep and got up immediately to start looking at maps and planning. We were on the trail three months later. This morning as I lay slowly waking, listening to the sounds of my children getting up and the dogs stretching and flapping their ears good morning, I had this clear vision of our Honeymoon where we sat each morning at the hotel restaurant looking out at a panorama of the Pacific while having eggs benedict. And then as I sipped hot, dark coffee warming by the fireplace I sensed the little Nor. Cal. town Chris and I drop in on at 10pm after leaving the Lost Coast being ever grateful to find the one restaurant still serving hot food and beer that was covered in cool postered artwork, and the aching climb up and down from the tables upstairs to the order counter downstairs. Our shit-eating grins and excited excusing of our dirty stinky bodies and ravenous hunger only passingly, noddingly acknowledged by the staff. The only hotel room we could find was at a silly little outdated cabin-esque style place, not exactly my vision of trail-life sandwiched together by posh hotel-life. But the thrill of the shower and cleanness and comfort of a soft bed were intoxicating. Chris snapped a photo of me at the delicious little café with the yummiest coffee and omelette ever the following morning. This is the linger effect of hitting the trail. While out I have all sorts of good vibes that carry me along but I also get an equal rush coming off the trail and appreciating the grandeur of our luxurious everydayness.
Back to today. I have been feeling wishy-washy now that the tingle of Christmas is past and the new year is here. I don’t like resolutions to change myself and I think one year flows into another seamlessly, but still my heart has been distracted. My bones have grown sedentary from the rich food, booze and warm fires. My dander got up yesterday when reading about the hunger crisis that is falling rapidly on Ethiopia at the same time as I was planning a decadent crab cake dinner for us. As I did the dishes and poured remnants of each meal off plates and dumped souring milk and eggnog down the drain, I found a forgotten half of a turnip in the crisper drawer and my soul welled-up at how that one bit of forgotteness would be greeted if handed to one of the mother’s waiting in the 200long line for a sack of rice to ration out through the next month for their family.
My grandparents always said if you leave this house hungry it is your own fault. They were depression era children who understood huger and took sacred the hospitality of the home, which was in large part demonstrated through food. I have a belief that people should not be hungry, I can’t even contemplate people who are starving. I want to reach out and feed them all, to welcome them and hand them a bowl filled with warm love. I understand the cruelty of population, resource depletion and the reality that the human population will ultimately reach plague status on the surface of the earth. That in some way we will have to undergo extinction or at least mass population decreases that will not flow gently out of the natural life cycle of humanity but instead will come from war and hunger brought on by scarcity of resources. It is sensible in a strange calculation to allow some to die today rather than artificially maintain them through aid since their self-preservation instincts will prompt them to immediately bear children, many children, in the hopes that at least some portion of their genetic material might survive. Leaving increasingly larger populations to be aided or to collapse in an ever worse humanitarian crisis in the future. But humanitarian crisis is rooted in the humane in the human condition, and I can’t help but think that if it were me and my children, that I would ask those who had more than my nothing if they couldn’t share, just a bit, to keep my alive.
Still I digress. Outside of the hunger crisis troubling my little privileged world, I had a marvellous mom day yesterday. I explained the crisis to the kids, showed them maps, asked their opinion on the matter and then took them sledding. Followed with hot cocoa, canvas painting of snowmen and hours of reading Percy Jackson. They are beautiful souls and I don’t always know the best way to be true to them, true to myself and true to the world. I mean seriously, millions will starve this year- here kids, have a cup of cocoa- extra marshmallows? These questions stitched together with acknowledging the sheer excesses I encouraged through the holidays leaves me restless. The kind of restless that wants to drop it all and find my solitude. To know how insignificant I am outside of my own head; how good and grand the bigger creation is. To reconnect with that girl who wanders in silence to remember we are all travellers plopped down by circumstance and chance, with nothing but two feet a heart and a mind to make our way in this world.
So I somehow manage to smell the ocean salty air on the South Dakota winter howling winds, I can feel the sunshine peek-abooing through the dappled shadows and splotches of dancing tree shadows and begin dream-planning my next adventure.
Location: Lost Coast of Northern California, King Range National Conservation Area
Trails/days:
1. Day 1- Shelter Cove to Big Flat Creek Camp (roughly 9 miles)
2. Day 2- Big Flat to Maple Camp along Rattlesnake Ridge and King Crest Trails (8-9 miles)
3. Day 3- Maple Camp to Shelter Cove along King Crest, Buck Trail and coast (roughly 12 miles)
Good to Know: tide chart needed as parts of the coast are inaccessible during high tide, rattlesnakes live in the King Range, and there are bears so you must pack food /scented items in a bear canister
Glad I had: hiking poles and flip flops
Last summer (beginning of July) my husband and I spent 3 days on the trail along Northern California’s Lost Coast. All the details have faded a bit, but I couldn’t resist reminiscing about such an amazing place. I worried about leaving the kids for too long, so even though I wanted to go from North to South hugging the coast it would have made the trip a bit too long. So instead we decided to park at Shelter Cove, hike the coast the first day and then shoot up into the Kings Range on the second day and then hike back out. We packed and planned for 3 nights but ended up just hiking out late the last day since there were only a few miles left.
The route we took gave us the best of what the region can offer. Sea spray in your face one day, and sweeping views of the coast from a dry, brush splattered mountain the next. In between we saw fern valleys and forested stream beds. It was so beautiful at each turn that I nearly ran my husband into the ground from my excited pace I set. He was worried about me struggling with the weight, and he wanted to plan for any possible contingency, so his pack was way too heavy and mine was a bit light.
The first day was spent rock hopping, worrying over the tide chart, and enjoying the seaside. We made camp at the Big Flat Stream camping area the first night and I am pretty sure it was a slice of heaven on earth. The stream has cut a way through the cliff that appears to have a forest tumbling down out of it, and then it opens up so wide at the mouth leading out to the ocean. It was right at sunset and we were treated to watching a deer grazing on the seaweed. We had an hour to set up camp and eat, then after watching the amazing star display we rolled into bags hoping the bears wouldn’t play ball with our bear canister set out under a rock some ways away from camp.
Day two we woke to a coastal fog penetrating everything. It was cool and I was glad for my jacket and gloves as we packed up. Took a few moments to dance along the rocks at the shore looking for sea cucumbers and ocean critters, then we packed up and started our day of climbing. The trail starts gentle enough with some meadow land that leads into the streambed and ferned valley. Rattlesnake Ridge seems short on the map but that is because you will spend several hours in switchbacks. It is a steep relentless climb but manageable with one foot at a time. The bigger anxiety for me was having to straddle a large pine that crossed the path, which brought images racing in my mind of the movie where the guy is riding the bomb as it falls from the plane. It did seem we could be one slip of the foot away from our children growing up minus a parent or two. With that and the constant search for bears ahead and straining the ears for rattles- it was not a relaxing day strolling along the trail. But you certainly felt alive.
The trail gets pretty lost once you make it to the ridge line and you need to watch ahead for sudden drop offs and push brush out of the way. Even though it is much hotter at the higher elevation it is a good idea to wear long pants to not get scratched up. We didn’t encounter our first rattlesnake until we were up on the ridge trail (where we found 2) and we just skirted them to the best of our ability. We did run into a ranger on our way up. He excitedly said he followed a bear down the trail we were about to head up on. It was a nice chat, though I suspect he thought we had built the fire pit he was quickly demolishing in the camp we stopped at to make some lunch. My husband had fallen into the creek when trying to find a safe way for me to cross. So we had to stop for a bit to dry him out. He and I take different strategies to stream crossing- I don’t mind taking the effort to take off my boots and roll up my pants and just wade through because I don’t’ trust my balance much. I think he likes the challenge of trying to puzzle the way out.
It was a hard push to make it to camp before dark. I was nervous because we appeared to have about an hour of light left, but then made a turn that put us on the shady side of the mountain. I don’t mind hiking by headlamp except that we were on another series of switchbacks that were not the best defined and it was clear we couldn’t stop and just make camp in the steep terrain. We found camp right at dark and threw up the tent and crawled in. The site was also on an incline so we put our feet to the slope side and hoped to not slide in the night.
Day three waking up was like unwrapping gifts on Christmas morning, the forested views out our tent were awesome. We had a leisurely breakfast and look around before packing it up to head back down. It was nice how the trail opened up later in the morning onto a wider- old Jeep/service road style of trail. We had been having to talk back and forth in single file all of the second day and it was nice to relax and stroll a bit (there may have even been a bit of hand holding). By midafternoon the pack weight on my husband was taking its toll and he was falling behind. This was when I had an experience with wildlife. (No not a bear, we didn’t see any- though we did see the remains of the fish they had eaten on the coast.) I was going down the middle of the wide trail, feeling pretty safe since I had a good view and was steering clear of the deadfall; when I heard the rattlesnake. It was up on the hillside along the road which put it right about eyelevel. He was bending and curling as I backed away, trying to put more distance between up. I was much closer to one of the ground the day before and didn’t think much of it, but having this one eye-to-eye still makes me shudder thinking of the damage he could have done me if he chose to strike my upper body.
If day 2 was our day of doing nothing but climbing up, day 3 was nothing but coming down. My toes started to ache from being pushed forward in my boots. I must say though, Buck Trail was a much nicer trail to be on based on the shape, slope and vegetation along the way. I am glad we did the loop the way we did because the switchbacks on Rattlesnake were easier to climb up than they would have been to come down, but Buck Trail would make a nicer there and back trip. Once we hit the flat ground of the coast it was a tremendous relief to the muscles- which caused me to pick up the pace again (poor husband). We took a break when we hit the ocean again enjoying some time communing with the serenity of it all on the beach. Then headed back down the coast. It was pretty incredible how we had seemed so uncertain on our feet walking the rocky shore just a few days before and by day three we were surefooted and confident- which might just sum up the whole experience.
tamingthemilemonster 